Waist Cinchers

If you're trying shapewear for the first time, one of our waist cinchers is a must! They nip in your waist to give you a '50s hour glass figure and, more importantly, do so comfortably! Unlike corsets you don't need to save them for an evening out, but can wear them on a daily basis with no pinching! Woman today don't seem to have as defined waists as in the past and not only is our power mesh cincher a best seller, some customers claim it has changed their lives! Yes, really!From a fashion point of view a nipped in waist is the look for Autumn/Winter 2005. The emphasis has moved away from the breasts, with push up bra sales falling dramatically, and the waist is the new focal point.Waist cinchers are ideal for wearing with tight waisted, full skirted dresses for a 1947 Dior 'New Look' image, or under tight pencil skirts for a 2005 Roland Mouret look.Like the ones here

Corset sizes

All our corsets come in even waist sizes (22", 24", 26" etc). To determine your corset size take 3 to 4 inches from your normal waist measurement. If you have a natural waist measurement of 28", then your corset size will be 24". If you have a natural waist measurement of 29" then your corset size will be 26".Most of our corsets feature a busk front (front opening) and laced back. To try on your corset don't undo the lacing at the back, simply untie the bow in the middle and 'jimmy' the corset apart. Once you have a gap of a few inches you can undo the busk front and put the corset on like a belt. If it doesn't fit simply 'jimmy' the back ties a little further apart. Once the corset is on. Pull the centre loops of the back ties gently but firmly to tighten the corset. If the corset is a longer style you might need a little help to tighten the top and bottom of the corset but with practise will be able to do it alone. The corset shouldn't close completely and easily on the first try. If it does, it's probably too big! Once you've worn your corset a few times you'll be able to gradually lace tighter so both sides meet at the back giving you a perfect fit.

See pandoras corsets

Vintage knickers guide

A wide variety of types of panties exist. Bikini panties are designed so that the hip connectors are small, like on those of swimwear. String bikini panties are the most commonly worn type in the United States and are similar to regular bikini panties, but instead of a thin hip grip, they have a small string, which sometimes ties around the waist rather than being pulled up over them. String bikinis are considered more revealing. String bikinis are usually made of satin or silk, but occasionally from other fabrics. High-cut, or control top, are cut higher on the hip to slightly pull in and shape the stomach to conceal obesity. High-cut are usually worn by older women and are often shunned by younger women. Boyshorts describe a type of female underwear that has a lower, thicker cut of material around the hips, making them appear as shorts that men would wear. They are sometimes criticized by men and women alike as not being feminine, although some women do wear them. The g-string is a thong panty with a string running between the buttocks. It is often jokingly referred to as "floss" by critics and some comedians.
Panties are made of a variety of materials and fabrics including satin, silk, pvc, cotton, nylon, mesh, lace, rawhide, leather, latex, lycra, and/or polyester.
In British English, and in places such as the UK, Australia, New Zealand, Ireland, South Africa and India, panties are often referred to as knickers. The term knickers is not generally used in the USA and Canada, where the term "panties" is usually favoured.

Girdle guide

Girdle Guide
The word girdle originally meant a belt. In modern English the term "girdle" is most commonly used for a form of women's foundation wear that replaced the corset in popularity the girdle can be a scanty belt-shaped textile for men and/or women, worn on its own, not holding a larger garment in place, and less revealing than the loin-cloth, as was used by Minoan pugilists.
Constructed of elasticized fabric and sometimes fastened with hook and eye closures, the modern girdle is designed to enhance a woman's figure. Most open-bottom girdles extend from the waist to the upper thighs. In the 1960s, these models fell from favor and were to a great extent replaced by the panty girdle. The panty girdle resembles a tight pair of athletic shorts. Both models of girdles usually include suspender clips to hold up stockings.
Girdles were considered essential garments by many women from approximately 1910 to the late 1960s. They created a rigid, controlled figure that was seen as eminently respectable and modest. They were also crucial to the couturier Christian Dior's 1947 New Look, which featured a voluminous skirts and a narrow, nipped-in waistline, also known as a wasp waist.
Later in the 1960s, the girdle was generally supplanted by pantyhose. Pantyhose replaced girdles for many women who had used the girdle essentially as a means of holding up sheer nylon stockings. Those who want more control purchase "control top" pantyhose. Many women forswear girdles, stockings, and pantyhose entirely.
Girdles and "body shapers" are still sold to women who want to shape their figure with a garment. Some of these garments incorporate a brassiere and thus become functionally equivalent to a corset. However, they do not incorporate boning and hence do not produce the constricted waistline characteristic of Victorian-era corsets.

View girdles at Pandoraschoice vintage lingerie shop

Vintage lingerie style and types of vinrage lingerie

Advice and information on choosing different styles and types of vintage and retro lingerie

Babydoll, vintage retro short nightgown or negligee intended as nightwear for women.
Basque, vintage retro tight, form-fitting bodice or coat
Bloomers, vintage retro lingerie underpants with short legs.
Bodice, vintage retro lingerie covers the body from the neck to the waist.
Boy shorts or french knickers, a style of panties, so named for their resemblance to male shorts.
Brassiere vintage retro lingerie bullet or cone bra
Bustier vintage retro lingerie bra for pulling overbust
Camisole,vintage retro lingerie sleeveless and tight fitting, covering the top part of the body
Camiknickers, vintage retro lingerie camisole and knickers joined as one garment
Cami Shorts vintage retro lingerie knickers usually see through
Chemise vintage retro lingerie top ususlly silk to cover bust
Corset by bone, vintage retro corset bodice worn to mold and shape the torso.
Corselet = vintage retro lingerie brassiere + Girdle
Drawers a pant-like garment worn during the 19th century for modesty and warmth. Some drawers were split-leg, in that the crotch seam was left open.
Frilly knickers
G-String/Thong, vintage retro lingerie narrow piece of cloth passes between the buttocks, and is attached to a band around the hips, worn as a bikini bottom or as underwear by both men and women.
Garter belt, vintage retro lingerie suspender belt usually 6 or 8 strap with metal clasps used to keep stockings up
Girdle, resembles a tight pair of athletic shorts
Girdlette vintage retro lingerie tummy shaper
Hosiery vintage retro seamed stockings and fully fashioned nylon stockings
Knickers vintage retro lingerie womens sheer underwear
Panties vintage retro lingerie ladies underwear
Petticoat vintage retro lingerie womens undergarment
Slip (Full vintage retro lingerie slip and Half slip / Underskirt)
Stockings vintage style with a stocking back seam and heel
Suspender belt retro style (British), aka Garter belt (US)
Undergarment for ladies and women,vintage retro lingerie and underwear

Present day use of the metal clasp 6 & 8 strap suspender belt

Present day use of 6 and 8 strap suspender belts
Six and eight Suspender belts continue to be sold through specialty and some department stores, as well as catalogues and websites, because many women find them more comfortable than girdles or pantyhose. There is also a certain element of sex appeal, too, because many men like their wives or girlfriends to wear garter belts and stockings rather than pantyhose. There are also panties with attached garters, similar to those seen in some of the men's magazines in the early 1960s. Garter belts today are available in a variety of colors and materials; red or black satin garter belts are particularly popular. Six-garter and four-garter versions are available; women find the six-garter styles more practical. Many garter belts today are made of a mixture of nylon and spandex.

6 or 8 Strap suspender belts functionality
A 6 or 8 strap suspender belt or garter belt normally had three or four suspender straps with metal clasps or garters fitted to the suspenders on each side attached to a stiff, reinforced strip of material (at least two or three inches wide) that fastened around the waist. Three garters worked best in attaching the stocking because the two-garter version did not hold the stocking as tight.

Six (6) & eight (8) strap metal clasp suspender belts

History of 6 (six) and 8 (eight) strap suspender belts

In the medieval period, garters or suspender belts with six or eight straps were worn in a similar fashion. The Order of the Garter is the highest order of knighthood in Britain. Its motto, Honi soit qui mal y pense ("shamed be the person who thinks evil of it"), is based on the story of a gathering in which a woman's garter fell off, and the King picked it up and slid it up her leg for her. The king said the motto in answer to the knights snickering at the event. Also, in medieval times, the groom's men would rush at the new bride to take her garters off her as a prize.

20th Century use of 6 and 8 strap suspender belts
Garter belts were a common, popular alternative to the girdle in the 1940s through the 1960s, especially among teens and young women. The garter belt was simpler and more practical than the girdle because it basically was used only to hold up stockings. It was considered more comfortable than a girdle. Some men's magazines featured models in garter belts and stockings, sometimes with slips or petticoats.

Advice information and purchase of (6) six and (8) eight strap metal clasp vintage lingerie suspender belts

Ladies wearing open bottom girdles and fully fashioned stockings

Two ladies trying on fully fashioned seamed stockings modelling open bottom girdles and bullet bras. Available to buy on line at Pandoraschoice


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How to wear vintage seamed stockings

Useful video showing all you ladies how to wear fully fashioned seamed stockings



http://www.thecastingcouch.biz

Danielles hard day at the office in her What Katie Did lingerie!

Danielles hard day at the office filmed by Nylon flash

Buy this lingerie at Pandoraschoice vintage lingerie shop

Slinky Sparkles gets jam on her seamed stockings

Slinky sparkles gets jam on her stockings

Buy fully fashioned seamed stockings at Pandoraschoice

Another great What Katie did vintage lingerie video - NOT FOR THE FAINT HEARTED!

A heart stopping vintage lingerie sizzler from What Katie Did on putting on seamed stockings
See the What Katie Did Lingerie range

More What Katie Did Corsets filmed by Nylon Flash

Filmed by Nylon Flash.

Sizzling vintage lingerie corset video by Nylon Flash

Buy What Katie did vintage lingerie corsets at Pandoraschoice vintage and retro lingerie shop

Visit Nylon Flash

How to put on a Corset Video film by What Katie Did

You can buy the What Katie did range of corsets online from Pandoraschoice

Corselettes and girdlettes

A corselette is a retro lingerie combination of a girdle and bra. Extremely popular in the 1950s due to their ability to accentuate more than one part of the body at once, corselettes are a must have for any stylish 1950's reto lingerie collection and essential in the woman's wardrobe. When retro lingerie is mentioned, it is often corselettes that come to mind. The upper bra often had a cleavage gap so you could show off your newly enhanced goods in a sexy evening ball gown. Pushing up the breasts and sucking in the stomach were the functions of the corselettes, and while probably not very comfortable, it helped women achieve the desired look of slim waistlines without sacrificing their bosoms

What Katie Did vintage lingerie

See the what ktie did lingerie range at Pandoraschoice vintage lingerie shop

'What Katie Did' was set up way back at the end of the 20th century as a online stocking retailer, over the years 'What Katie Did' have expanded into lingerie and have built up the biggest collection of faux vintage lingerie hosiery and lingerie in the UK today.

The 'What Katie Did' designs are not simply inspired by the 1940s and 1950s but actually made using vintage patterns adapted for women of today. As far as possible What Katie Did stick to using fabrics and manufacturing which were available at that time, which does causes some merriment at their factories as they are frequently asked questions like: 'are you sure you don't want a nice modern seam in these stockings?'
Lingerie and shapewear played a very big part in fashion in the first half of the 20th century. Corsets and bustles shaped women in the early 1900s whilst breasts were strapped down in the 1920s.
What Katie Did focuses on the 1940s and 1950s when woman's natural figures were celebrated and breasts and hips were in fashion. Hooray! However, all was not as it seemed as underneath the dresses serious help was at hand.

Girdle Advice

Open bottom girdles shape the hips, tummy and derriere. It is a myth that wearing a girdle will make you significantly smaller but it will give you a little leeway on a too-tight dress. It also smooths out any lumps and bumps which makes an open bottom girdle ideal for wearing with a tight fitting pencil skirt or dress.

"Putting em on. The nails I have broken until I learned how to put on a girdle properly! Here's how. Fold girdle in half. Step into it. Pull up on hips, unfold, roll up. Run your hands under the girdle at the side of the hip and smooth the fabric, pulling it down gently."

"I like to fasten my back garters first, seems to make it easier". 'I Haven't a Thing to Wear,' by Judith Keith, 1968

A corselette or includes a bra and covers the whole torso. Imagine a beautiful, fitted, black silk cocktail dress. Now think of the visible lines left by your bra, knickers and suspender belt. A corselette comfortably solves all of these problems and ensures a smooth line from bust to top of thigh"You Never Thought You'd See The Day department: Ms. magazine, under it's new Australian management, adds a regular column on clothing in the February issue, to wit: 'A lot of women are finding that, far from being demeaning, ...corselettes are marvelous novelties and ...fun to wear'. Well, we know those Aussies were bottom-line conscious." Parade Magazine, 'On Parade', 1988.

Waist cincher advice

If you're trying shapewear for the first time, one of our waist cinchers is a must! They nip in your waist to give you a '50s hour glass figure and, more importantly, do so comfortably!

Unlike corsets you don't need to save them for an evening out, but can wear them on a daily basis with no pinching! Woman today don't seem to have as defined waists as in the past and not only is our power mesh cincher a best seller, some customers claim it has changed their lives!

Yes, really!From a fashion point of view a nipped in waist is the look for Autumn/Winter 2005. The emphasis has moved away from the breasts, with push up bra sales falling dramatically, and the waist is the new focal point.Waist cinchers are ideal for wearing with tight waisted, full skirted dresses for a 1947 Dior 'New Look' image, or under tight pencil skirts for a 2005 Roland Mouret look.

Corset sizing

All our corsets come in even waist sizes (22", 24", 26" etc). To determine your corset size take 3 to 4 inches from your normal waist measurement. If you have a natural waist measurement of 28", then your corset size will be 24". If you have a natural waist measurement of 29" then your corset size will be 26".Most of our corsets feature a busk front (front opening) and laced back. To try on your corset don't undo the lacing at the back, simply untie the bow in the middle and 'jimmy' the corset apart. Once you have a gap of a few inches you can undo the busk front and put the corset on like a belt. If it doesn't fit simply 'jimmy' the back ties a little further apart. Once the corset is on. Pull the centre loops of the back ties gently but firmly to tighten the corset. If the corset is a longer style you might need a little help to tighten the top and bottom of the corset but with practise will be able to do it alone. The corset shouldn't close completely and easily on the first try. If it does, it's probably too big! Once you've worn your corset a few times you'll be able to gradually lace tighter so both sides meet at the back giving you a perfect fit.

Corsets and corset advice

Most women wear a corset these days for the glamour as much as the effect. Corests come in a variety of styles including corset dresses, gothic corsets,bridal corsets,corset tops, victorian corsets and even girdles. There is a long history of corsets which are a popular lingerie choice for women. Wearing a corset takes you back to a more decadent era, making you feel you've just walked out of the Moulin Rouge. Corsets (at least the steel boned ones we sell), are not to be taken lightly. They'll easily skim 4" from your waist and want to keep going long after you've given up. They shouldn't, however, feel uncomfortable. You should feel as if you're being hugged tightly.Corsets are the ultimate in boudoir dressing, but they needn't be confined to that. A corset makes a daring top when teamed with a pencil skirt or even trousers (as Kylie Minogue has demonstrated recently). If you want to achieve a nipped in waist (think Dior's New Look) a corset may not be the right answer. A waist cincher is a more practical option for everyday-wear.Corsets are really quite simple to get into once you get the hang of it. We provide full instructions with every corset purchased.

Vintage, bullet bra and cone bra sizing information

If you are unsure of your bra size please equip yourself with a tape measure and work through the following guide:

The measurements must be made against the skin as opposed to over clothing:
1. To find your band size (32, 34, 36 etc.), measure directly under the bust and straight across the back. Hold the tape measure firmly. Add 4 inches to an even number and 5 inches to an odd number. This is your band size.

2. To find out your bust measurement which will determine your cup size, measure the fullest part of the bust in inches. This must a looser measurement to step 1. In fact the tape measure should almost slip off to get the best results.

3. Subtract your band size (step 1) from the second measurement (step 2). The difference determines your cup size. Don't be scared of our corsets: they're made to work hard and to reduce your waist by 3 to 4 inches.

Difference between back size and bust measurement in inches Cup size Same = A cup Cup size 1" more = B cupCup size 2" more = C cup Cup size 3" more = D cupCup size 4" more = E cup (or DD)Cup size 5" more = F cup (or DDD)

UK European and US Dress Size Converter

UK dress size 10 = US dress size 6, France dress size 38, Europe dress size 36
UK dress size 12 = US dress size 8, France dress size 40, Europe dress size 38
UK dress size 14 = US dress size 10, France dress size 42, Europe dress size 40, and so on

For lingerie based on waist sizes here is the metric conversion: 24" waist = 60cm26" waist = 65cm28" waist = 70cm

Vintage lingerie sizing information & Advice

What katie did lingerie sizes either go by waist measurement or dress size. When measuring your waist, measure tightly. You're measuring for shapewear so tummies in and tape-measure tight. Your natural waist line is the narrowest point of your torso, higher than your trouser waistband, higher than your belly button - keep going - aha! You've got it.

Most What Katie Did lingerie garments are cut for a Vintage Figure, that is a figure with the hip measurement being 8 to 10 inches bigger than the waist. If you have a Modern Figure (waist less than 6 inches smaller than your hips -and for measuring hips we measure the widest part) it is advisable to go down one size in certain garments.

What Katie Did lingerie dress sizes are based on waist sizes of: Size 8 - 23" waist, Size 10 - 25" waist, Size 12 - 27" waist, Size 14 - 29" waist, Size 16 - 31" waist, Size 18 - 33" waist.

Fitting notes are included in garment descriptions where needed. No notes mean there's nothing to worry about and the garment is suitable for all

Advice on choosing stockings

Pandoraschoice sells a range of sexy stockings and tights that are ideal for special occasions. Thgis includes tight and stockings by What Katie did as well as fully fashioned nylon seamed stockings. Go to Pandoraschoice on the menu to see if we can help any more. Stockings are very popular with both women and men but there are a few things that you need to consider when choosing stockings to wear.

The Best Stockings Colour

1. If you are unsure what is the best colour for your stockings choose either nude or black. There is nothing sexier than sheer black stockings.

2. Look at the composition of the stockings e.g. are they silk stockings or nylon stockings and do they contain lycra which gives the stockings elasticity.

3. It may be that in some circumstances tights are a better choice than stockings especially if you are wearing something potentially revealing. Stockings however are without doubt more sexy and hygienic than tights.
4. A lot of supermarkets sell cheap stockings but the best quality stockings and tight are more expensive. As is the case with everything you get what you pay for.

5. Good quality stockings and tights get you noticed and can be extremely stylish, sexy and chic, with detailed lace tops and sheer texture they can be drop dead gorgeous to wear and look at.

Stockings Advice and information

1. Only hand wash stockings and make sure you do not put hosiery in with other items that will snag the stockings

2. Stockings are ideal for special occasions such as evening wear, interviews and weddings.

3. The more sheer the stockings the sexier they look and help to make women look sophisticated and suave.

4. Stockings should be worn with high heeled shoes but be careful wearing stockings with boots as they will often snag the stockings material

How to wear seamed stockings

To wear vintage lingerie seamed stockings you will need to buy a suspender belt unless they are hold up stockings. Suspender belts come in a variety of different styles but in the main are extremely comfortable and sexy to wear. Suspender belts are worn on the hip and the actual straps vary in length but normally are adjustable in order to comfortably reach the stocking tops.

There are also suspender belts with a classic wide rim almost like a short girdle that are becoming very popular. These are available in a variety of widths. These are sometimes called girdlettes and have a useful other function of shaping the waistline. It is also possible to wear stockings with Basques, corsets and girdles.You can attach your stockings to suspender belts using clasps these ate usually a mixture of rubber or metal. It is often better to have more clasps as this will make the stockings fit better. Six clasp suspender belts are available. Have a look at Pandoras choice. Metal clasps are the best and most traditional stockings clasps and these are fitted to a lot of retro style suspender belts, Basques and corsets. If you are wearing traditional silk / Nylon stockings that are non stretch you should use as a minimum a six strap suspender belt as this will make the stocking look and feel right on the leg and optimise the stockings sexy appearance. How to adjust a suspender belt.

1. Make the back straps 1.5 - 2 inches longer than the front straps and 1 inch longer than the side straps. Some suspender belts have longer back straps as when you sit there is a greater distance to go for the suspender around you bottom to reach the stocking tops.

2. There should be a very slight pull on the stockings when you are standing to keep the stockings tight and sheer on the legs. Before you go out in the evening to your party make sure you have worn the stockings for a while to make sure they are properly adjusted.

3. The first few times you wear stockings, wear them around the house for a while before you leave to be sure you have everything adjusted properly. If you are wearing a short skirt, be sure to sit down and see if the stockings are long enough or else your stocking tops will show!

4. Put your underwear or thong panties on last as these negates the problem of having to take your suspenders off in order to go to the loo!

5. When putting your stockings on remember to watch your finger and toe nails!

6. Roll the stockings down into a coil shape, put your thumbs inside the stockings and then roll the stockings over the foot and up the leg.

7. Only hand wash your stockings and other legwear

Seamed stockings styles and history

Seamed Stockings which are also known as hosiery, or hose, and popularly as "Nylons" , are coverings for legs and feet. Early references to seamed hosiery go back to the ancient Greeks. Workmen and slaves wore hosiery in ancient times, and Roman woman wore a short sock (called a soccus) in their homes.

The story of stockings began in 1589. That was when the English churchman Reverend William Lee invented the world's first knitting machine and started to make hosiery out of cotton, wool and silk. The machine was a national treasure. In fact, the queen of the day threatened the death penalty for anyone who attempted to export it.

In the 19th century machine-made cotton stockings became available for women. After World War I (1914-1918) short skirts were fashionable and long silk stockings were worn again, once again, proving that fashion and skirt length determine hosiery fashion! With the discovery and ultimate use of Dupont Nylon in the late 30's and early 40's, the primacy of silk in women's hosiery waned. Silk was ultimately replaced by nylon after the war. The technology remained reasonably static right until the 1930s, when a new circular knitting machine meant garments could be made in one piece, and no longer needed to be sewn together.

Around the same time, scientists at the Du Pont company in Delaware, USA started experiments in molecular chemistry that would quite literally change the world.Julian Hill was one of the scientists there, and he was looking for a silk substitute. One day he discovered that by pulling a heated rod from a mixture of coal tar, water and alcohol he could create a filament that was strong, sheer, and silk-like in appearance. Further research led to the first synthetic fiber, which soon came to be known as Polymer 6.6. Two years later, in 1937, Du Pont patented the discovery. Synthetic fibers were first shown by the company to the public at the World's Fair in New York in 1939. Taking the NY from the city's initials, the fiber became known as "nylon". The 'lon' is for London.

Vintage nylon stockings which became popular after World War II (1939-1945) and completely replaced the silk stocking usually had stockings seams until the late 1960's. They were knitted flat and "fully fashioned" which means that they were shaped to fit the leg like modern sweaters. By decreasing the number of stitches as the stocking was knit towards the ankle, a garment was created that was "knit to fit". Nylon was a revelation. The first nylon stockings appeared in New York stores on May 15, 1940. Over 72,000 pairs were sold in the first day alone, and the Japanese silk market collapsed almost overnight. Department stores throughout America saw a similar stampede. In the first year, 64 million pairs of stockings were sold and manufacturers could not keep up with demand.When the US joined the Second World War in 1942, most nylon production was switched into tent and parachute manufacturing for the military forces. American GIs could still get hold of stockings, though, and they became the gift of seduction as the GIs tried to woo their way into the hearts of British women.After the war, demand rocketed. The first post-war hosiery sale took place in 1945 in Market Street, San Francisco, and attracted 10,000 shoppers. Throughout the 1940s and 1950s stockings were known as " fully-fashioned stockings " rather than the single size of most hosiery today. Fully-fashioned stockings were tailored to the shape of the leg, and had a distinctive seam at the back. When women could not afford stockings, or had difficulty getting hold of them, they would often draw a vertical line up the back of their legs to simulate the effect.

Since 2000 vintahe stockings have become incredibly popular especially at special events such as Ascot Ladies day, weddings, the ball season they are the ultimate fashion statement in couture for the legs and also very hygenic and sensuous

Definition of Hosiery and stockings Terms

Stockings Denier

This is an Italian measurement for knitting yarn which equals 5 centigrams per meter of yarn. The weight of the denier is obtained by weighing 450 meters of thread of nylon, silk or rayon. If 450 meters weighs 5 grams, the thread is called a 100 denier thread. The base of 450 meters being the standard measure, the weight of the thread will determine its caliber. The lighter the thread (the less number of deniers) the finer the weave. A 15 denier yarn is twice as fine as 30 denier yarn. The most popular denier for day/evening is still 15d, 30 denier has been popularized as "business sheer", 70d as "service sheer". " ultra sheer stockings " or " evening dress sheer " stockings can be 15d, 12d or 10d. The sheerest practical denier is 8d, which is so wispy sheer that it literally disappears on the leg! (and is so fragile that it can barely survive one wearing)

Gauge

There is much confusion about the meaning of "gauge" in the determination of stocking quality and sheerness. Gauge is an English unit of measure. It is a characteristic of rectilinear knitting machines. It corresponds to the number of needles in a 38-millimeter section of the knitting bed, circular or flat. A 60 gauge knitting machine has 60 needles to a 38 mm section. It is obvious that, the more needles you have in this standard invariable 38 mm section, the finer the needles must be, and the tighter the weave. The monofilament or flat pure nylon thread of 15 deniers was the thread most widely used in the knitting of fine stockings. The two most common gauges in fully-fashioned knitting were 51g and 60g. 60 gauge stockings have smoother, denser look and feel and are highly prized! 51 gauge stockings were easier to knit as the machines had fewer needles and ran more efficiently than the 60 gauge. These stockings were still highly desirable, but were slightly less expensive, and used for "fashion" and popular priced stockings.

The Process

Full-fashioned stockings are knitted flat, then fashioned, or shaped by mechanical manipulation by programmed chains that articulated cams to drop needles from the knitting process creating the famous "fashioning marks" on the backs of the stocking. (The little V's on the back near the seams are created when a stitch is cast off, just like in hand knitting a sweater) The stockings are then joined at the back on a looping machine by hand, creating the seam up the back. The actual knitting is done on a flat knitting machine first developed in Loughborough, Leicestershire, England by William Cotton in 1864. The stocking is started at the top with the welt, with an extra-thick section for gartering. Reducing the number of needles at the ankle, then adding needles at the heel, and again reducing the number through the foot shape to the fabric. The modern fully-fashioned machine was made from 1940-1960 by Reading Machinery Company in Reading, Pennsylvania, who stopped production of the machines in the early 1960's. In the years '59 and early 60's you could purchase one of the later models, which they called the R100, but, you had to order four of them. The cost was a little over $750,000 each for this special order. The length of the machine is about 45 feet long, and it could make 30 stockings concurrently. The company started out in its early days making a single section which made one stocking. Soon after machines added length, to make 15 (half section machines) stockings, and then went to full section machines (thirty stockings). Tragically, there are fewer than ten working machines in the world today! We know of many inactive machines, however, the skilled technicians required to program the timing chains and maintain the machines have long gone.

What about the needles?

A 60 gauge machine with a full head of needles has about 600 needles per head. Since 600 x 30 heads comes to 18,000 needles, knitting this ultra luxury produced became an incredible challenge. These needles cost approximately five cents each. That means it can cost up to $9,000 in needles alone!

Lanolizing

This is a natural chemical process added to the dye bath to improve the look, feel, and wear of the stocking. Lanolin is a natural substance found in the animal fat of sheep that is used in soap and hair conditioner products. Manufacturers used different degrees of lanolin application to their hosiery. The most famous was "Albert's". Their stockings were called, "Velvetized", and contained a heavy lanoline treatment. Albert's stockings are highly prized for their high sheen and velvet touch. Hanes and others also used this process effectively. Modern stockings use silicon to achieve the same effect. Because the lanolin has adverse effects on the Lycra that is knit into almost all modern hosiery lanolin is rarely used in modern hosiery.

Temperature Control

51 gauge machines are not as fussy as the 60 gauge machines. They will run cold or hot. The tolerances are not nearly as precise as the 60 gauge. 60 gauge machines have more needles at a closer tolerance than the 51 gauge machines. A closer tolerance on the set up, or gauging must be kept to maintain manufacturing tolerances. Factories must maintain the temperature (summer and winter) within 4 degrees, 74 to 78 degrees. Very difficult! When it gets below 74, the machines won't knit properly, over 78 and the same problem occurs. You may have 5 or 6 good stockings out of 30. The others are unusable! Every pattern is on a continual chain of 120 feet and about 8" wide which has studs pressed into the links. These studs tell the machine what it should do, so every design needs a new stud pattern, which is a hugely complicated operation. After manufacture each stocking is seamed, one at a time. People often ask why there is a hole at the top of the seam. This is called the 'finishing loop', or "key hole back", which cannot be eliminated as the seaming machinist has to finish the seam turning the stocking top, otherwise known as the welt, inside out. Every stocking is manufactured white, or "in the greige", and must be piece dyed, as a finished garment to the desired color. They must then be "boarded", a process where each stocking is pulled over a flat metal leg form, and heat set with steam. This tightens the knit, defines the leg shape correctly and removes creases. Thereafter each stocking is checked for size to ensure that pairs match. Quality control for faults, large and small, can result in a loss of a third of production.

Circular Knit Stockings

Modern stockings and pantyhose are knit on circular machines eliminating need for the back seam. Circular knit stockings originally were made with reinforced heel and toes, this was accomplished by using a "reticulating heel" machine, also made by Reading. This machine actually knit the heel pocket into the stockings using a devise that knit the foot first, then the heel pocket and finally the leg and welt. This created the "V" in the heel that we all know and love. During the early years of circular knit stockings, the heels and toes were reinforced similarly to the original full fashioned stockings, this gave the consumer the assurance that sharp nails or rough shoes would not cause the stockings to run. Later stockings were knit with different types of reinforcements on the toes and heels, eventually all reinforcements we discontinued! Stockings reinforcements evolved from standard circular toes to tear drop toes, a toe that was seamed under the foot and looked like a teardrop, Demi-toes, a very dressy look with a 1/2 toe reinforcement, and finally to sandal foot with a nude toe for sandals. Heels also evolved from fully reinforced heels to the scalloped heel, and eventually, to evolve finally to the nude heel, and again to the fully nude, sandal foot stocking.

What about the different types of knits?

Regular flat knit: This is the original knit made on all stockings until 1945. It is a smooth stitch that is silky and soft to the touch. It has a wonderful shine and is the premier knitting technique of the era.

Kant run: This knit was developed to help prevent runs in the stockings. It is a lock-stitch and has a slightly rougher texture.

Micromesh: This stitch was developed to create a matte finish on the stocking that was very popular during the 60's. It is soft and smooth, but not as silky as regular flat knit.

Pebble mesh: A very rough knit to prevent runs used in teen and utilitarian stockings.

Textures: Patterned stockings. Diamonds, herringbones, and waves were the most popular. These styles were very popular during the 60's. Hosiery companies began to buy modern Italian knitting machines which had infinite knitting possibilities that allowed enormous variations.

Modern Stockings

As modern knitting techniques improved and the machinery became more expensive and complicated, stockings evolved through several phases. Modern machines knit tubes that are boarded, or "heat set" to the shape of the leg; the heel pocket was no longer knit-in as in the 50's. To improve fit, the yarn companies came up with several "improvements" that would forever change the future of classic hosiery. The first was the stretch stocking, actually a crimped yarn that was knit and packaged unboarded in a limited size range that conformed to the leg when worn. Popular brands were, Cling-Along, Agilon, and Cantrece. The ultimate fit solution that effects the vintage stockings made today, is to add Lycra, another Dupont invention that creates an elasticized stretch stocking that clings to the leg to the knitting yarn. This is used in almost all modern stockings and pantyhose. The effect is to create a support stocking effect. The unfortunate sacrifice is the original sheer stockings effect that is so dear to the true stockings connoisseur.

See nylon and seamed stockings at Pandoraschoice